Iceland - For the Northern Lights Hunter

Right after Ireland, it has been my dream to travel Iceland via campervan for as many years as I can remember. In the last year or so, I have seen some really neat people travel so some really interesting parts of Iceland and the urge to go there became stronger by the day. In the fall, I allowed life and it's happenings to get the best of me. All the steps I took towards bettering myself felt futile and I was allowing my emotions and the impending winter months to wreak havoc on my mental health. One thing that I'm very good at, is convincing myself of anything - especially if that anything is booking a planet ticket.

It didn't take long for my search to lead me to Icelandair where the promises of unique adventures and the opportunity to see the Northern Lights sunk it's teeth into me and my wanderlust soul and heart longing to run far away didn't stand a chance. I did sleep on this for a total of two nights before booking my flights which is a new record for me and I'm considering it personal growth (please don't tell me any different.) If you have plans to head to Iceland between October and March and are hoping to see the Northern Lights, I did every type of tour so you don't have to. Outlined below are the tours I did, my personal experiences, pros, cons and tips so you can pick what best suits your schedule and travel style. And as always, if you have any questions or comments please don't hesitate to reach out!

Dressing for these tours is a science because you do spend a lot of time on a bus driving out of the city but when you get to the mountains and are standing outside viewing the light shows, the cold and the wind are bitterly. I wore base layer pants and long sleeve shirt, soft shell pants, x2 pairs of wool socks in my insulated hiking boots, a fleece and my parka with a pair of warm gloves and a hat. I also brought my travel Rumpl blanket and a thermos filled with hot water. I learned quick not to wear the hat or the parka on the bus, you don't want to get hot and sweat because it'll make you even more cold standing outside. The thermos filled with hot water felt like a blessing each time I got really cold but make sure you are used to water intake because there is no where to go to the bathroom on most tours! Handwarmers/toewarmers would have been really convenient if you plan on taking photos, removing your hands from your gloves repeatedly gets unbearable and standing still in the chill makes for some cold toes.

For photographs I primarily used by iphone 12 pro and my GoPro Hero 9. I had a Nikon with me but I don't have enough experience using it, let alone in conditions needing such specific knowledge so I stuck to the phone and the GoPro, both of which I put on tripods (absolutely necessary) and got some decent shots.

Night 1 Northern Lights - Small group tour Operated by: EastWest Hotel pickup: Yes, no cost Pickup time: 9pm Wifi: Yes Extras: Free photos, hot chocolate, wool blankets for use, tour stated Kleinas which we didn't get. Access to bathrooms: No

This was my first tour, I had gotten off a flight incredibly early, had a mini nap and spent the afternoon in the Sky Lagoon. Gone back to my hotel where I ate a sandwich for dinner that I brought from home and twiddled my thumbs trying to stay away until my guide came to pick me up. The van was very comfortable, the driver spoke great English and made adequate conversation while we went and picked everyone else up, it also had wifi which was nice to be able to keep into contact with family and try and use my own Northern Lights apps to track where we were going since I couldn't see much out the windows anyway. The guide was very knowledgeable in explaining some history, how they track the lights and determine where they might be visible and had the group laughing a few times. We headed out of Reykjavik towards the mountains and that's when things got wild. My guide started looking out all the front windows, exclaiming that he could see the lights. I had my face smooshed so hard against the window, I'm sure there is still a Sarah shaped face blob there. But when I tell you I could not see a single THING. Shortly after, he pulled off to the side of the highway, hopped out with his phone, snapped a few pictures and proved to us that the lights really were there. Our eyes aren't meant for night vision (unless you're a northern lights guide) and can't see the phenomena as well with the naked eye, especially when they're just forming. He used this information to bring us further into the mountains where he veered off into a small lane in the middle of a field. Shortly after, we were surrounded by dancing ribbons of blues and greens. It was painfully cold and because we were in the middle of the mountains it was incredibly windy. No amount of layers prepared me for the elements and I eventually gave up attempting to take photos and just enjoyed what I could see without the lens. This tour provided photos, which, unless you were eager and more assertive (with the group I was with anyway), were hard to get from the guide due to there being no rhyme or reason to his choosing who got to go next unless you were practically shouting in this face that you wanted one. There was also hot chocolate provided which was good but once again, easily missed if you didn't know he was handing it out.

The lights began to dim so we hopped back into the van, the guide got on the phone with other guides in the area and determined we should head to the other side of the mountains. The lights weren't more active there so we began to slowly head back into the city, stopping a few more times hoping for one more look before we were dropped off at our hotels, which was approximately 2am for me. Overall, a good tour. Much preferred over the larger buses (keep reading for those experiences) but not my favourite night, except to be fair I'm sure the lack of sleep and jetlag did not help.

Night 2 Northern Lights Tour Operated by: Reykjavik Excursions Hotel pickup: Yes, no cost Pickup time: 8:30pm Wifi: Yes Extras: Hot chocolate and waffles available for purchase at viewing point Access to bathrooms: Yes This tour was the one that was included when I booked the package so I had no idea what to expect and had limited information on what was happening. I had done some more research on how to best use my camera and waited outside my hotel for my pickup. I was picked up in a city bus with no one else on it and driven the short distance to the cities main bus terminal. I was filtered in with hundreds of other people, directed to a ticket window where they gave me a slip of paper and told to head to the back of the building. There, I was met by more staff checking these slips of paper and directing us to coach buses waiting in the parking lot (of which there were 6). I got on a bus with limited seating left and took one of the only empty seats next to an individual who refused to even look at me. Awkward. The bus ride was around an hour, the tour guide informing me that we were heading to Thingvellir National Park while also giving some camera setting advice and more information similar to what I had gotten the night before about how they use the KP index to determine potential for light shows. We pulled up to the park where the buses let us off in hoards, were told not to wander too far so we didn't fall into fissures and to get out of the way of incoming buses. By the time all the buses got there, there was approximately 10 large coach buses and hundreds of people milling around a cold parking lot. This night was slightly less chilly with less wind but the lights didn't put on nearly as good of a show. They appeared in the sky in a single streak across the horizon where they stayed for around an hour before disappearing and refusing to return. The food truck pulled up shortly after we arrived with hot beverages and waffles for sale but I'm sure you can imagine the insane line for treats with so many people in such a close area. I didn't want to be in line if/when the lights became more active so I skipped this opportunity and stuck to my heated water thermos and the snacks I had packed instead. We all got on the bus again around 1130 and were shuttled back to the main bus terminal where I got on another bus that took me right to my hotel.

Overall, this tour was disappointing compared to the night before. The hoards of people were incredibly overwhelming for me but it was nice to have access to washrooms and the chance to buy some Icelandic goodies while I waited if I wanted to. Many tours operate with the policy that if you don't see the lights, you can join the tour the next night again at no cost as long as there is availability, which they said was the case on this night since the visibility was limited but I already had a different tour booked so I am not sure how seamless this process is.

Night 3 The Elite Northern Lights Tour

Operated by: Reykjavik Outventure Hotel pickup: Yes, no cost Pickup time: 9:00pm Wifi: Yes Extras: Photos, hot chocolate, wool blankets, cinnamon buns, Access to bathrooms: No This was absolutely my favourite tour and I would recommend this company and guide (Árni) if you only have time for one tour, let it be this one. Arni picked me up at the hotel by coming right into the hotel to greet me, unlike other guides who just waited out front, made me feel immediately comfortable and made good conversation as we picked up other guests. He informed us he has been doing this for more than 15 years (it could be more, my memory is a little lacking on this.) He played some Icelandic music, had plenty of stories to share and took us right to "his spot" which was right in the middle of a lava field.

He set up his camera and we waited for the lights to do their thing. This was the third night in a row that I got to see the lights and I was over the moon, I had been hoping for enough luck to see them once but three times was indescribable. Arni was incredibly friendly, took as many photos of us as we wanted, handed out hot chocolate made locally in Reykjavik and Icelandic cinnamon buns and then left them out for us to help ourselves as we wanted. He continued to share stories, explain his history with the company and his Viking roots and had us laughing the entire time.

Overall, this experience was beyond what was expected. Arni truly was an incredible guide and made the most effort to make the experience as great as it was. I got the photos emailed me to me the next day and they were really great compared to what other companies captured.

Night 4 Northern Lights Tour

Operated by: Reykjavik Excursions Hotel pickup: Yes, $15 CAD per person Pickup time: 9:00pm Wifi: Yes Extras: None Access to bathrooms: Yes

I booked this tour not realizing it was another large group tour, that's what I get for booking sporadically as I was waiting to board my flight. I was picked up at my hotel in a city bus and taken to the bus depot where I transferred to a coach bus. Unlike the first large group tour, there were only 2 buses and I managed to get (and keep) seats to myself for the journey which was appreciated. The guide was friendly enough, gave a small introduction to Iceland and the science behind the lights with some quick photo tips and then I was so exhausted, I had a nap for most of the drive. We pulled up to Thingvellir National Park again but this time I was prepared since I had been here twice previous. I took the small board walk away from the crowd and set up a blanket on a bench where I was able to set my gopro on a tripod and enjoy my hot tea I had brought. Once again we had access to the parks bathrooms, this time only 1 more bus showed up and no waffle truck so it was less chaotic and busy.

The lights were very sporadic on this night. mostly appearing in small streaks before rapidly progressing to dancing beauty and back to simple streaks. The wind was less intense where I had hidden away on the board walk so I didn't get quite as cold and managed to enjoy the glorious night sky and many shooting stars.

While this wouldn't be a tour I would say is worth the cost (if you are renting a car you can drive yourself to the park or pay for a different tour), it was enjoyable in it's own way since I was somewhat aware of what yo expect out of it. There was nothing personable or really unique about it but I am thankful for the experience and the fact that I got to see the lights once again!

Night 5 Reykjavik Northern Lights Cruise

Operated by: Elding Hotel pickup: Yes, $28 CAD per person Pickup time: 8:15pm Wifi: Yes Extras: Heated inside seating area, onboard cafe, warm overalls, pictures of lights taken by crew Access to bathrooms: Yes This tour was unique because of the aspect of sailing on the Flaxafloi Bay while looking for the lights, I was so excited to have a different perspective and this experience. I was picked up at my hotel in an Elding bus and taken right to the dock where I accessed the boat. There were plenty of overalls to choose from, many of them with malfunctioning zippers or holes in the pockets but I managed to find a set in my size in decent condition. I found a set in the mid deck and waited to set sail.

The staff were all younger than on any other tour but incredibly friendly and knowledgeable. They gave us some instructions and prepared us for the journey. The neat thing about this tour is that it sails no matter what the weather looks like, some tours (boat and bus) will cancel if they don't think the conditions to see the lights are good enough. This tour runs either way and then gives you a free pass to come back if you don't see them.

The lights were the least impressive on this night, still making an appearance but without much activity, however being able to see the northern llights on one side of the boat and the lit up city of Reykjavik on the other was truly a magical experience. With the overalls on over my usual winter layers. I was surprisingly not that cold but also enjoyed the option of being able to duck inside to warm up if I needed to.

This night there happened to be a meteor shower which we got to experience parts of and I cannot put into writing how incredible the experience was. Due to being on a moving boat, my cameras were not capturing the lights well, so I had put them away and just enjoyed the beauty as it unfolded in front of me, in awe for the majority of the tour.

Overall, I really enjoyed this entire experience, if you are looking for a unique way to see the lights this would absolutely be the tour for you. The downfall is that you are limited to hoping you can see them surrounding the bay instead of being able to drive to them in the freedom of a vehicle but the benefits of being able to go again for free and the view of Reykjavik at night definitely make up for the unknowns.

I booked this trip hoping to feel insignificant in the most magical way, to catch a glimpse of the lights even once because I knew that somehow my problems would feel a little smaller and my wanderlust heart would grow a little bigger. I could not have fathomed the idea that I would be lucky enough to see the lights 5 nights in a row and even writing this now, I'm reminded how indescribable it was and how grateful I am for the entire experience and the power that travel and curiosity has on making my soul feel a little more whole again.

As always, if you have any questions or comments please don't hesitate to reach out here or on Instagram, I'd love to chat! And stay tuned for for the next one, "Iceland for the Adventurer" coming soon.

If you happened to miss my "Iceland - Tips and Tricks" blog and you're planning a visit, find it:

HERE